I have always had an obsession with the construction and make of historical garments. Carefully observing how volume and silhouette have been achieved with the use of flat pattern and draping techniques. From illustrations, photographs and original garments, I recreate a pattern by using the body as a ruler.
1940’s Cord-a-roy coat
The hip pockets position is to exaggerate the hips making the waist smaller. Inside there are horse hair stiffening panels to make the hips stand out.
Originally this jacket would have had raglan shoulder pads thus making the waist smaller.The neat, small, and simple collar makes the shoulders appear larger.
Sleeve used to have belts with buckets matching the waist bucket.
The sleeve has deep inverted box pleats exaggerating a cinched in look.
Large centre back inverted box pleat matching the other waistline box pleats front and back.